No Baggage: 48 hours in grey, glorious Glasgow

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No Baggage: 48 hours in grey, glorious Glasgow

What to see, where to eat and where you need to go out in Scotland's second city. And no, we stg, we don't recommend you go to Subclub.

words Megan Wallace

Your no-nonsense travel guide to....Glasgow.

Glasgow may not be Scotland's capital but, for whatever reason, it seems to be the major touchstone of Scottish touchstone for everyone else in the UK. Seriously, if you say you're Scottish Londoners will immediately start telling you how "cool" Glasgow is and talk to you at length about their friend who moved up there to live with his girlfriend, where he owns a home that's basically a palace because it's all soooo cheap. And did they mention how friendly everyone is?

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Things Glasgow has going for it: it's Scotland's biggest city (

How to get there

The Edinburgh to Glasgow train does give me trauma flashbacks to my youth (too many of my tender queer exes lived there...damn you Glasgow School of Art)

Where to stay

I'm going to be straight with you: I don't have any fancy hotel recommendations because I stayed in an AirBnB. Obviously, if you're Scottish or have read anything about the country's rental market, you'll know that holiday let AirBnBs are the bane of everyone's existence in Edinburgh and are contributing to the rental crisis in the capital. However, I'm on holiday, so I don't want to think about that. Also it's Glasgow so I think it's technically fine and I'm opting for convenience and the "living like a local" experience.

Anyway, the place I opted for was a basement flat in a pretty stately-looking sandstone building overlooking Kelvingrove Park in the aptly named Park District. Pretty cute, with some nice, understated furniture and plenty of gigantic green house plants. So far, so millennial but I'm happy to not contend with some art student's deranged cluttercore sublet.

If you're also in the AirBnB game I'd recommend a tenement in the West End for that picture-postcard Glasgow experience. Otherwise, Govanhill and Dennistoun are where actual young people live - so there are for sure plenty of quirky places you can stay there.

On the other hand, if you're more into hotels and happen to have lots of cash (sugar babies of the world, unite!) then there's no beating Kimpton Blythswood Square Hotel: a five star spa retreat and the only AA-accredited hotel in the whole city.

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Regional delicacies

People make Glasgow - and those people drink Buckfast. Yes, this tonic wine is technically m

Feel-good culture

So, first-up what is nearby my temporary AirBnB home? Well,

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Going out, out for the night

How to tell if a London creative agency type hasn't been to Scotland for the past ten years? They tell you to go to Subclub: a hot box of toxic white masculinity, where big room techno plays in a tiny, sweaty underground hole. Yes, we're all for lo-fi nightlife (like Edinburgh's Sneaky Petes, where this writer once worked) but not this. Never, this. Actual Glaswegians go to SWG3 (a drafty warehouse where I battled to get Sophie tickets in 2015), La Cheetah Club, Berkley Suite

With licensing being super strict, it's not the ideal place to party - sorry to tell you.

On the other hand,

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